The patterns that have just a bit of smocking at the center front of the garment are such quick and easy projects to stitch up. The one for this post is the Collar's Etc. Pattern "Layette". There are so many garments included in this pattern it's hard to decide what to make first! There are suitable versions for boys or girls. The pattern is sized 0-3 months and 6-9 months. So perfect selections for baby showers! I have made the boy version of the smocked bubble for a new baby in my church. I have used Pima Classics, the blue herringbone patterned fabric. I have used the smocked bunny design included in the pattern, but have also put some bunches of carrots on the Peter Pan collar.
When you are ready to pleat the area for the smocking, though it isn't stated in the pattern, you need to cut the pattern piece of the bubble front with straight sides. You should never try and have bias edges go through the pleater. So I cut out the buttom according to the pattern lines, but when I cut the side seams, I just cut straight up--not cutting out the armholes, shoulder seam and neck edge. I then mark with washout marker the armholes, shoulder seams and neck edge. These will be cut out later after the smocking is completed. See above where I have mark, my smocking is completed, so I am ready to cut on those blue marked lines for the construction steps. I also needed to have some reference for placing my bunches of bullion carrots. So I marked the seam allowance on both collar pieces to get my carrots placed evenly.
When I can, I will use the Ready to Sew Piping, but many times, there is not the color that will coordinate with my garment. So the Ready to Cover Cording is the solution. See the Peter Pan collar pieces pinned with the covered cording. ( I'm a pinner!) I have stitched the cording a couple of needle positions away for the cording when I am covering the cording with my cut bias. Then when I do a final stitching I will move the needle closer to pack that cording next to the bias fold of the fabric.
One of my sewing machines, a Bernina, has a clear foot with a small "bump out" that the mini cording fits perfectly in! As stated above, I have not stitched in the bias right up next to the cording when covering the cord. Then here in this step, I have moved the needle position one more click toward the cording, but it still is NOT right next to the cording. That will occur in the final step of collar construction.
This sweet bubble has inverted release pleats on either side of the center back. You will want to press the stitched pleat so that the center of the pleat lays down next to the stitching. This way when it is turned on the right side the fabric will be evenly distributed and make a lovely pleat.
Here's the finished results with a close up of the smocking and carrot embroidery. You can also find this garment in the Inspiration Gallery of the website. I referenced A to Z of Bullions for my carrots. The bubble has an easy back placket with a 4 buttons closure. Elastic in each leg and a small piece of "Snap Tape" to close the crotch. Though the pattern calls for buttons in the crotch, I think today's mothers will appreciate the snap tape for quicker diaper changes!