My current design board was wanting to improve upon the design of the Children's Corner pattern #266 "MACY". This pattern is either a dress or blouse featuring a wrap-style front closure, neckline ruffle on both views and a hemline ruffle for the dress. The sleeves are very cute, a smooth cap sleeve with a narrow casing on the sleeve edge with which 1/4" elastic is inserted for a pulled up effect. Of course, fabric selection will make a difference in how your project turns out, but I wanted to go a step further. I love the details. So I decided to incorporate turquoise gingham check spaghetti bias as my ties and make piping from a matching turquoise gingham check.
I chose FF-1086 for the base fabric. The entire dress & sleeve is lined, so I used Imperial Batiste in white for the lining. This will make for such a comfortable dress for a little girl. I choosing to make my own piping to match the spaghetti bias, I used a new tool, the Darr Piping Magic. This is a great way to make your piping and not have to precisely cut the bias stripes. With the Darr Piping Magic, cut your bias width, I used 1" since my seam allowance was 1/4", I would not have a lot of waste to trim off. Whe I make my piping I 1) cut my bias stripes, 2) seam together bias stripes, if needed, 3) press the entire piece of bias lengthwise to give me a channel to place the piping in, 4) lay the piping along the pressed channel and stitch in place. Then with the Darr Piping Magic you choose the seam allowance width your pattern calls for and place the cording of the piping in the corresponding seam allowance grove. The excess fabric is past the edge of the Darr Piping Magic. With your rotary cutter, just trim off the excess fabric and "WaLa" your piping is finished with the seam allowance width needed! Very handy!
I have chosen to pipe the neckline and the hemline seam with the handmade piping. The piping is stitched inplace before adding the neckine ruffle.
Be sure and remember that when using piping, the first time you stitch the piping in place you DO NOT stitch right up next to the cording. Wait and do this when you are stitching in that area for the last time. Each time you have to stitch move your needle position one click closer to the cording. That way you will insure that it works at compacting that cording close to the fold of the bias. When pinning the neckline ruffle, the dress lining is then pinned on top so that the lining is secured now at the neckline & then the lining will later be secured at the hemline after the hemline ruffle is attached. The completed neckline ruffle really stands out by having the definition on the contrast piping.
Another lesser used tool that was "brought out of storage" on this project was my machine hemming foot. The hemline ruffle was the place I used it. It makes such a nice uniform, narrow hem, that it is a shame to waste the time of pressing, turning and stitching a narrow hem. You may need to give a bit of practice on a scrap, but it is well worth the time and effort to have a lovely result for your garment.
The completed hem on the ruffle
As mentioned earlier, turquoise gingham piping was inserted between the hemline ruffle and the bottom of the dress. The hemline ruffle is completed and then the dress lining is stitched to the hemline seam. If you are familiar with completing the hem as with the Children's Corner "Lucy" jumper, it is stitched in the very same way. If you are confused with this step, Children's Corner has a very nice video on their website to help you visualize this process. Here is a
link for that video from YouTube. The video has 2 parts--
part 2 link.
Well, we are finally ready to complete MACY. The main componets of this garment have been: 1) making handmade contrast piping, 2) piping the neckline prior to adding the neckline ruffle, adding the neckline ruffle & attaching the lining, 3) using a narrow hemming foot for stitching the ruffle's hem, 5) stitching contrast piping to the hemline before adding the hemline ruffle, 6) lining & adding a casing for the sleeves, inserting elastic then inserting the sleeves in each armhole, 7) stitching the dress lining to the hemline through an opening left in the lining, 8) and lastly 2 buttonholes are stitched in the right front panel and spaghetti bias is stitched to corresponding spots on the left front panel. The dress front has been crossed over wrap, the spaghetti bias is brought through each buttonhole and tied in a bow to secure. Give
MACY a try, it was quick & easy. I stitched most of the dress in an evening. I'm very pleased with the results.
