The Smocked Bishop

The smocked bishop is one of the sweetest garments a smocker can stitch. Or at least in my humble opinion! I recently completed the Creations by Michie Smocked Bishop pattern #135. Michie has taken the time to decrease the amount of pleats around the neckline and it seems to be in a much better proportion for the 2 sizes I have made from the pattern. I first made the pattern up in the Newborn size and this most recent one is a size 6 months. I still like using the Ellen McCarn Block & Smock Guide for shaping the pleats in preparation for smocking. With this dress I stitched up View B which opens down the front. You have to do some careful pleat counting so that your center fronts match up nicely when smocked. The front placket is approximately 3/4" wide and she has you stitch on each side which makes a nice finish. My thought in making this little dress was that the new mom would have something for later. I smocked the dress with an old Kathy Crisp design plate "Mini More" using the heart flower. So little Olivia (the new baby) can look forward to a "Valentine" dress in February!

I find Michie's pattern very straight forward and instructions are easy to follow. She uses 1/2" wide seams, so a more novice seamstress has an easier time of construction. The only construction detail I did differently is to make the "French Bias" or double folded bias for the neckband. I like the more substantial band for stitching around the neck and also the fact that I don't have to turn under on the inside of the dress when I am ready to hand stitch down the bias band. The fold of the French Bias is the finished edge for the stitching. I've included a downloadable document for making the French Bias neckband. The main trick to the neckband on the smocked bishop is also addressed in Michie's pattern. She has you do a wide zig-zag from the neckband stitching line out toward the raw edge. This wide zig-zag is about 1/4". When you trim close to the zig-zag stitching you then have a nice narrow seam for turning the bias band around. You really want to have that bias band cover all the way over a nice narrow seam so that it won't buckle.

My dress is stitched in a Spechler-Vogel Pima Classic "Pink Tattersol". It's a wonderful soft cotton and just a different take on a tiny check. There just happen to be the right shade of pink 3/8" button to finish off the front placket! I hope Olivia is pleased with her Valentine Dress!

Making French Bias Neckband.pdf (45.29 kb)